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Madagascar's cities and towns offer a wide variety of activities and sightseeing opportunities, including national parks. The following list describes the cities, means of access, and lodging. This list of lodging possibilities in towns one is most likely to encounter on a first visit to Madagascar does not pretend to be exhaustive; it is simply a list of hotels in areas we have visited recently and reflects only our personal opinion.
South of Fianarantsoa (56 kms) on the country's main artery, Route Nationale 7, Ambalavao is the last town of the High Plateau before reaching the "Door to the South". It is the gateway to Andringitra's National Park and is known for the Antaimoro paper and its bustling cattle market every Wednesday. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Two days drive from Antananarivo and two days drive to Tulear, Ambalavao is not very accessible and is not on our "A" list for a first visit. Andringitra National Park is another day drive in each direction; it is a hiking and climbing destination with spectacular granite boulders but strictly for the VERY FIT.
Located in the High Plateau on Route Nationale 7 (90 kms south of Antsirabe), Ambositra is the compulsory stop en-route when driving from Antananarivo to Fianarantsoa. It is highly regarded for exquisite Zafimaniry style wood carvings as well as an important religious and cultural center. Access: Lodging: Activities: Our opinion: Must see on drive from Antananarivo to Fianarantsoa. Not really a must on a first visit itinerary but interesting for a follow-up trip.
Located on the North East coast of Madagascar, Antalaha has been a prosperous little town since the late 1900's when vanilla was introduced. It is linked by a good road to Sambava (80 kms north) or by air from the capital and other northern cities. It can also be reached on foot with a 5-day hike north from Maroantsetra across the Masoala Peninsula. Prior to the devastating cyclone of April 2000, Antalaha attracted adventurous travelers bound for Madagascar's most easternly point at Cap Est by bicycle or small boat. Residence du Cap set in splendid isolation was totally destroyed but should be rebuilt and operating in the near future. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Antalaha is a pleasant little town but not a destination unless one is in the vanilla business or going to Cap Est when the Residence will once again be operational.
Capital of Madagascar and a city of 2,000,000 located in the High Plateau, "Tana" is a harmonious tumble of earth-red brick houses from grandiose to miserable, lush gardens and garbage dumps, flowers and bustling market places, ante-deluvian automobiles, grid-lock traffic jams, elegant business people and street urchins: love it or hate it but it won't leave you indifferent. Access: Lodging / Hotels: Lodging / Bed & Breakfast: Activities: Our opinion: Although many international flights directly connect to domestic destinations, a stop in "Tana" is recommended upon arrival. Not only is it a good idea because of jet-lag (8 hours difference from New York, 11 hours from L.A.), and to adjust to the altitude of the High Plateaux, but mainly as an introduction to the country one is about to discover. Its diverse ethnic groups, rich cultural heritage, colonial past, and dynamic new city administration all blend in the capital, where its attractive, youthful population reflect the hope of a better future for Madagascar. (It should be noted that multiple stops in Antananarivo are the norm on any given itinerary due to the lack of good domestic connections.) Definitely spend a couple of days in Antananarivo
the food and music are great!
A pleasant spa-town with beneficial mineral springs, a cool and temperate climate, Antsirabe was quite a sought-after destination and prosperous resort in colonial times. It is now an important commercial and industrial center with breweries, cotton mills, vegetable and dairy farms, and precious stones. Lodging: Our opinion: Overnight stop on the road from Antananarivo to Fianarantsoa but not a must for a first time visitor.
Located in the North, Madagascar's fifth largest town, population 80,000, has a superb location at the extreme northern tip of the island. Once a strategic naval base and bustling cosmopolitan city, Diego has lost its splendor yet retains much of its charm of yesteryear. It has daily flights to and from Antananarivo, has good accommodations with excellent cuisine, and is the gateway to Montagne d'Ambre National Park and the Ankarana Reserve. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Definitely should be included in any itinerary of at least 14 days. The town has charm - if somewhat faded - but the Northern baobabs, Amber Mountain and Ankarana Reserve are absolutely worth the detour, except during the rainy season.
Located in the High Plateau, Fianarantsoa is the historical, intellectual and cultural center of Madagascar' elite Betsileo tribe. It has also become Madagascar's wine country with excellent red, white and "grey" wines being produced in the surrounding areas. It is also the gateway to Ranomafana National Park, magnificent example of altitude rainforest. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Interesting town but mainly as the gateway to Ranomafana National Park. Definitely stop overnight if driving from Antananarivo to Tulear or going to Ranomafana as accommodations near the park are still scarce and too rustic for most.
Located at the edge of both the Southern Rain Forest and the spiny desert to the West (Southern Dry Forest), Ft. Dauphin breathes the fresh, cool air from the Antartic and is the gateway to Madagascar best known Reserve: Berenty. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: A MUST see for first time visitor: almost daily flights, easily accessible rain forest and spiny desert in adjacent areas. Mostly a good road from Ft. Dauphin to Berenty, picturesque scenery, exceptional fauna and flora, good accommodations and guaranteed lemurs. Not totally pristine but still to be included in every first visit to Madagascar. It is important to note that the drive between Tulear and Ft. Dauphin is rough with very basic accommodations and facilities, therefore we recommended flying to Ft.Dauphin in nearly all itineraries.
Sainte Marie Island is just 15 miles off the coast of Sonierana-Ivongo (north of Tamatave). With a colorful past as a pirate's haven (1680 to 1720), secluded beaches, soft white sand, warm weather year-round, swaying palms and lush vegetation, Sainte Marie has for three centuries remained the perfect example of a pristine tropical island. It is changing fast however, and the wheel barrow used ten years ago to haul the clients' luggage from the airport to the nearby Hotel Soanambo has been retired. In its place a fleet of spanking new mini-buses shuttle sun-starved European to several new and quite charming establishments on a road still mercifully unpaved. Access: By air from Antananarivo or Tamatave Lodging: Activities: Our opinion: Great for Europeans looking for a sun destination and "dolce farniente" . Really not for the American clientele other than shell collectors, fishing enthusiasts or those in need of seclusion and rest.
A large cosmopolitan city on the Mozambique Channel, Majunga on the northwest coast of Madagascar enjoys a hot dry climate year round. It is the gateway to the Ankarafansika Reserve which includes Ampijoroa Forestry Station, one of the last remnants of the dry deciduous forest which once upon a time covered the entire west. It is a prosperous town and a busy harbor with a large Indian population and interesting mix of African, Europeans, Arabs and local Sakalava. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Very interesting destination, easily accessible, good accommodations and Ampijoroa Forest nearby (two hour drive over good road). A must for birdwatchers and should be included for a first visit in longer itineraries at least 18 days in length.
On the southeast coast of Madagascar, Manakara was once a thriving colonial town with vast coffee plantations but is now pretty much isolated from the rest of the country due to infrequent flights, an erratic train to and from Fianarantsoa, and road access only during the dry season. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Really not for most travelers except the totally flexible, laid-back and adventurous on their second or third visit to Madagascar.
An affluent little town with an abundance of coffee, cloves, vanilla, and lichee nuts, as well as fish and lobster from the Bay of Antongil, Mananara is north of Tamatave on the East coast of Madagascar. An aborted United Nations Biosphere project and a "could have been good" destination. Access: Hotels: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Last on the list; Aye Aye Island is a private garden with transplanted Aye Aye; access is very difficult and only for the extremely hardy.
Located in the Southern Rain Forest, Mananjary is a picturesque fishing village. Access: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Not for first-time visitor; need a longer trip
Located on the northeast coast of Madagascar, at the far end of the Bay of Antongil, Maroantsetra is a sleepy, friendly town bathed in the fragrance of vanilla and cloves: Madagascar at its most authentic. Gateway to the awesome wilderness of the Masoala National Park, Maroantsetra is a must for any serious nature lover. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Not to be missed still wonderfully un-touristy, a BEST SELLER for one and all. Definitely A MUST!
Located in the Western Dry Forest, Morondava boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Madagascar and spectacular forests of baobab. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: Plant lovers must see Baobab Alley: spectacular!
Located in the North, just off the northwest tip of Madagascar, Nosy Be means Big Island. It boasts 12 months of sunshine, beautiful beaches, the warm waters of the Mozambique Chanel, exuberant tropical vegetation, an ever-growing number of hotels, and aspires to be Madagascar's Riviera. Access: Lodging: Resort: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinion: too touristy for our taste except for a few days of R&R at the end of an intense tour of discovery.
Perinet Reserve, rainforest located in the East. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: definitely a MUST and guaranteed to see the Indri.
Ranomafana National Park, located in the Southern Rain Forest . Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Fabulous forest but a disappointing destination in every other respect.
Located in the North, the coastal town of Sambava sits at the mouth of the Bemarivo River on the north, and is the center of the vanilla and coconut growing region. Access: Lodging: Activities: Our opinion: very picturesque location with pristine river experience and interesting look at the vanilla industry. Best for longer trips or serious trekkers.
Located in the East region, Tamatave is the main port city for Madagascar. Access: Lodging: Protected Areas: Our opinion: Three stars and definitely worth the detour to visit Parc Ivoloina if one is fortunate to meet Andrea Katz and Charlie Welch from the Duke Primate Center, the indefatigable souls of this project for the past 10 years.
Located in the Southern Dry Forest, Tulear reminds one of an "old west" town with its dry air and dusty streets. A stopping-off point for those interested in snorkeling and diving in the beach area of Ifaty just to the north, birding in the spiny desert forest outside of town, continuing east to the Isalo National Park or south to the Beza Mahafaly reserve, or stocking up on supplies for the long arduous trip to Ft. Dauphin by road. Access: Lodging: Ifaty: Protected Areas: Activities: Our opinon: Not much more than a stopover to other areas as mentioned; visit to the Arboretum d'Ankasay is a fascinating look at the unique plants of this southwestern area and a must for plant lovers. |
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